It´s been a
strange couple of weeks. I could, if I was being overly pretentious, call it a
watershed moment for me. It hasn’t so much been the things I’ve been doing
during this time, but more the way I’ve been feeling as I’ve done them.
I´m not
making much sense, I know. But that`s because I´m still trying to work out the
significance of it all.
I´ve been
living in Spain
a while now. But last Sunday, on a plane back from the briefest of visits to
London, I actually felt like I was coming home.
Truth be
told, I noticed a change the week before. But I´ll get to that in a minute.
I had had
to take a plane to Jerez because I couldn´t get one to Seville that evening as everything
was booked up last minute. But as we banked in a steep curve to come into land
at the airport, I could see out of the window the winding Guadalquivir River,
the fields, the lagoons and the sea along the coastline from Jerez down past
Cadiz. The sun was low in the sky as it was about 9pm and it reflected brightly
off the water as the plane came into land from the south.
The feeling
took me quite by surprise, I have to say. Because while I´ve always liked
Spain, I haven´t felt completely at home here. At least, until now, that is.
I don’t
know. Perhaps it was down to the beer I´d had on the plane that was making me
feel that way.
But even
after getting off the plane, grabbing a taxi and heading into town, the feeling
remained.
That same
evening Spain beat Italy to win
football´s European Championships again. Just like last week, the streets were
deserted, the roars and the cheers echoing around the town from bars and homes
as people crowded round their TVs.
But making
my way back to our flat in a taxi on empty streets, for the first time I felt a
genuine pride and connection with the team and the people here which I´ve not
felt before in Spain. When I got in and switched on the TV, I even got
irritated – it is me after all, so how could something not irritate me, even at
a time like that – when a couple of the Spanish players from Barcelona tried to
unfurl the Catalan flag as they held the cup aloft. The same thing happened in
2010 when Spain
won the World Cup. Then, one of the players enthusiastically waved the red and
yellow Catalan flag as he held the Cup too.
Don´t get
me wrong. I have nothing particularly against Catalan separatism and pride and
the growing calls for independence from Spain, but I did find myself thinking
that the players achieved their success wearing the Spanish shirt and with the
Spanish people´s support and it seemed to me that they were forgetting this in
their excitement to express their political feelings.
What strange
affinity with the Spanish was I experiencing?
I don´t
know. Perhaps it was the stodgy Chinese takeaway I was eating as I watched the
celebrations on the TV that made me feel that way.
The next
morning I had to take the early 7am train back at Seville . As I sat at a window seat and
watched the sunflower fields roll by outside against a bright sun low in the
sky, I found myself having the same feelings again. A strange peace. A calm. It
was a beautiful morning and there wasn´t a cloud in the sky. The carriage was
quiet; most of the other passengers were sleeping or dozing. But I was happy to
sit there and watch the world go by outside, feeling as if I really belonged.
I don’t
know. Maybe it was because I was listening to “So What” by Miles Davis on my MP3
player at the time that made me feel that way.
As the
train pulled into the station at a small town not far from Seville, I looked
through the railings into the adjoining park and saw a man sitting on a mower
winding his way serenely around the trees and up and down in perfectly symmetrical
lines. He was an old man, with wrinkled, sun-tanned skin and grey, receding
hair, covered by a crooked, battered red and blue baseball cap. He was wearing
earphones and I imagined him listening to The Blue Danube by Strauss as he
wound his way, almost as if he was in a waltz, around the park apparently with
not a care in the world.
I don’t
know. Maybe it was because I was listening to The Blue Danube by Strauss on my
earphones at the time that made me feel that way.
It had all
started the week before when me and the wife had gone to a spa in Seville for a
dip in their hydro pools and a back massage.
As we sat
there in the pool, embraced by dozens of little bubbles blasting out from jets
under the water, for the first time in ages I actually felt quite relaxed. I
realised too that, for the first time in a long time, my brain wasn’t whizzing
along at a million miles an hour thinking of all the things I had to do.
I always
did that when I lived in London. I always had a million different thoughts at
the same time. That’s what living in London does to you. Everything moves so
fast that you have to move with it or you get trampled in the crush.
So when I
first moved to Spain, I was still going at full speed, when everything else
around me was going at a far more sedate pace.
But as I
sat there in the spa, the bubbles rushing through my swimming trunks like a
thousand tiny farts, I took a deep breath and let it wash over me.
Metaphorically and physically.
I don’t
know. Maybe it’s because things don’t move as fast here as they do where I used
to live. And maybe I’m finally beginning to realise that it’s ok to drop down a
gear or two.
Hello James! I think you're right. The south of Spain is magical because we don't mind where people belong to. However, if you go to Madrid, you will feel as a foreigner! Even though I was born in Seville, when I have travelled to Madrid, I always feel something special when I arrive at station. I think the south of Spain is a special place. We are like a big family and we love everybody! It's amazing how a person from England can love Andalucia like his home. I think you have become andaluz!
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